There’s a cable drum on the floor with an iron plugged into it. “We have three tablecloths on each table. The first two are ironed on the spot, ”explains Thomas Brandt (56), the master of the three-star restaurant Bareiss in Baiersbronn. As soon as the damask is perfectly flat, it is covered.
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In the middle of the room is a huge bouquet of flamingos, ranunculus and tulips. The arrangement could also decorate the Federal President’s office in a fitting way. Light blue padded Louis XVI chairs are available to guests. There are small stools for handbags. This restaurant is not just about eating, here the art of cooking is staged in baroque opulence.
Any controller would complain about the effort. “It’s about table culture. Flair is important,” says Claus-Peter Lumpp. The three-Michelin-starred chef appreciates the art of pleasure. “Everything becomes more hectic and anonymous. We are a relic, a ideal world, a place of calm.” Lumpp goes with the Bareiss as the lid goes with the saucepan. He has worked here for 40 years, faithful to the Nibelungen. “Hermann Bareiss had the wisdom to invest in a restaurant in 1982”, explains Lumpp. Even after four decades of fruitful cooperation, the two gentlemen still use the first name. Claus-Peter Lumpp is not a friend of first names: “Before, I used to do paragliding by first names. Today, he does not no longer enjoys leisure, but finds relaxation in gardening.
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In addition to the good idea, Bareiss Senior had the financial strength to get things done. Because a restaurant of this level, it is said, has been in the red for a long time at the beginning. Today it is the jewel in the crown of the house: in 1984 there was the first star, in 1985 the second. Claus-Peter Lumpp has been in charge of the kitchen since 1992 and in 1993, at the age of 28, he was the youngest chef in Germany to be confirmed with two stars. Since 2007, three stars have permanently shone on the restaurant.
Lumpp came to his profession by chance. When his family moved from Wannweil to Horb, he did not feel comfortable in the new class. After finishing high school, he preferred to drop out of school and start an apprenticeship. Just as coincidentally, he ended up at the Kurhotel Mitteltal, which has since been renamed in honor of the owner family.
After completing his training, Hermann Bareiss (78) sent his promising young chef across half of Europe for further training. Lumpp sat among others in Munich with Heinz Winkler in Tantris and with Eckart Witzigmann in Aubergine, in Zurich at the Kunststuben with Horst Petermann, in Monte Carlo with Alain Ducasse in Louis XV. “My style developed from French cuisine,” explains the three-starred chef. He remains unflappable and stubborn. “I’m a bit old-fashioned,” says the 58-year-old with a mischievous smile. “Traditional, not old-fashioned,” says young boss Hannes Bareiss (42). Classical French is now more modern than ever.
In the culinary arts, a new sow passes through the village every few years. Brutally regional, Nordic, vegan or molecular, Claus-Peter Lumpp observes it with interest. He always cooked fresh and sustainable, long before it became fashionable. The Bareiss restaurant likes to use regional products: the Buhlbach arctic char has traveled barely five kilometers before ending up on the plate. There is game shot in the Black Forest by Hannes Bareiss himself. The lamb comes from a shepherd from the Swabian Jura.
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When molecular gastronomy emerged, Lumpp briefly considered getting involved. “Luckily we didn’t do it,” says the starred chef. “Why would you squeeze a pea and then artificially reshape the liquid?” As long as the 58-year-old is in charge of this kitchen, no dry ice fog will escape from under the eating bell and you won’t. season food with fenugreek instead of pepper. He uses dishes that the guest recognizes at first glance on the plate: fillet of veal, truffles, saddle of venison, pâté de foie gras. The Bareiss menu includes many classics, which are in high demand by regulars. Turbot for example. Depending on the season, it is accompanied by morels, chanterelles or porcini mushrooms. “You don’t put diamonds on an iron ring,” says Lumpp, explaining his affinity for high-quality ingredients. Of course, the chef also thinks outside the box. His greetings from the kitchen are relatively experimental: melon with oriental spices, Thai curry with basmati rice, variations of sushi.
“I’ve only been successful since I stopped cooking,” jokes Claus-Peter Lumpp. Of course, he did not stop cooking, but he had his own job, as they say in the professional kitchen, and was responsible for fish dishes. Then he focused on being the conductor. “I serve, I finish and I give everyone a hand where it’s needed. Nine chefs and six service employees take care of 25 guests. “The team is important. You train each other. The best way to deal with stress is to spread a good mood,” says Lumpp. “He’s a team player and he will eventually pass the baton,” says Hannes Bareiss of his boss. However, a successor has yet to be named.
The reputation and splendor of the three-star temple also ennobles the other gastronomic offers of the house. If you don’t want to shell out 265 euros for the large tasting menu, you can also eat excellent lentils with spaetzle and sausages in strings for 16 euros at Dorfstuben. “A restaurant like ours is worth a detour, not just a detour,” says young boss Hannes Bareiss. He talks about visitors from Shanghai, New York or Hong Kong. That was before Corona, now mostly Germans, Swiss and French come.
Claus-Peter Lumpp took advantage of the enforced breaks to spend time with his wife and ten-year-old daughter. He took long walks with Bloom, a chocolate lab dog. “It was not a creative break. For that, I would have to go to the market, taste the products, visit my colleagues.” After the respective confinements, the gourmet restaurant could hardly spare itself inquiries. “The pandemic has made a lot of people think about how nice it is to be able to eat out.”
Star cuisine in Germany
There are currently 9 restaurants that have received the highest quality rating of 3 Michelin stars: Schwarzwaldstube in Baiersbronn, Restaurant Bareiss in Baiersbronn, Rutz in Berlin, Waldhotel Sonnora in Dreis, The Table Kevin Fehling in Hamburg, Victor’s Fine Dining by Christian Bau in Perl, Restaurant Überfahrt Christian Jürgens in Rottach-Egern, Aqua in Wolfsburg, Restaurant Schanz in Piesport.
46 restaurants in Germany received two stars and 272 restaurants received one star. https://guide.michelin.com/de/de SUR